Genderless, the new normal against all prejudices
From GCDS to Michael Kors, male and female silhouettes met in a unique and surprising mix, and their very choice of models testifies a strong common desire to eliminate differences. Among the most famous shows on the fashion scene, Maison Margiela brought upfront a genderless army: heroes and heroines inspired by the French Resistance, where layering, tailoring and structure become the focal point. John Galliano, the visionary designer of this maison, had already underlined his passion for androgynous fashion since his first collections, also playing with the use of makeup. Today, he tells his new idea of uniform with perforated shoulder garments and particular attention to the waist, offering the iconic Tabi boot in a high-top, heeled version, also seen on men. In Paris, Givenchy's catwalk proposals are always chic: the models showed off pixie cuts and sartorial masculine jackets, played down with ripped jeans. While the suit with Bermuda shorts, a must in this season’s wardrobe, was combined with comfortable slippers, for a cool fresh look. The Michael Kors catwalk welcomed differences: here, the casting spoke of diversity, as it featured transgender models. For this season, the American designer created a new hyper versatile garment, that combines a skirt with a pair of tailored trousers. Johnathan Anderson is another designer who loves to play with gender identity. In fact, he presented delicate and poetic men's knitwear dresses, also in shades of pink. The same pink can be found in GCDS’ neon, street-inspired garments. In fact, those hybrid styles, from logo T-shirts to flounce suits, paraded down the catwalk, in a setting inspired by Jurassic Park. Sometimes, subtle references to genderless fashion come to us almost subliminally: Balenciaga's creative director Demna Gvasalia presented the SS20 collection in a labyrinth of blue velvet. Recalling the European Parliament and emphasising the philosophy of "power dressing" by parading one-size and strictly genderless boxy jackets. Francesco Risso, creative director of Marni, displayed an androgynous timeless look in an array of colours and sustainability. For the Men's Spring-Summer 2020 fashion show, loose typically masculine trousers became two-toned and were also effortlessly worn by female models. On the same note, moving from Milan to New York City with the champion of the sporty cool style Alexander Wang, we saw the same kind of women's trousers combined with numerous belts and classic shirts revisited with a modern twist. Wang always celebrates inclusivity through his choice of models. This was no exception, as the casting was very diverse and it also included transgender beauties. To say the least, the guiding thread of the SS20 catwalks are infinite variations of a single trend: the genderless, destroying all prejudices and establishing itself as the new milestone for fashion.
From GCDS to Michael Kors, male and female silhouettes met in a unique and surprising mix, and their very choice of models testifies a strong common desire to eliminate differences.